Steam Bending Wood

Steam bending wood is a technique used for centuries, back in the days it was commonly used to bend hull ribs for ships, different hand tools and weaponry. As time passed it became more popular under the furniture makers and they started using this technique for making chairs, baskets, tables and even musical instruments like violins and guitars. These days steam bending has become less popular in the industrial section but still widely practices by craftsmen and even thought at craftsmen schools.

The ability to bend solid wood can give your projects both a structural advantage and an amazing visual boost. For example, a sweeping curve on the back leg of a chair can be very weak if it is cut from a solid board. There will always be a small part of the leg with short grain which will break if it is subject to stress. If you use the steam bending technique to make this leg, It will keep almost all of the strength of the original straight piece of wood. The grain will also follow the curve and visually show the shape you have created.

The principle

Wood cells are held together by a substance called lignin. Imagine the wood to be a pack of straws, when looking from the top the space in between those straws are filled with lignin. by steaming the wood you decrease the strength of the lignin bond between those straws. Steaming the wood on 100º for about 1 hour for every 3cm in thickness (width is irrelevant) will soften the lignin enough for you to bend the wood in the required shape.

The steam box

Building a steam box for bending wood only requires exterior-grade plywood, waterproof glue and an electric tea kettle.the box should be as small as possible depending on your project, a common used size is around 1.5m x 15cm x 15cm (LxWxH) you can make it longer but you might have to add a steam kettle or find a better way to produce enough steam. on the bottom of the box drill a hole and use iron pipe to spread the steam coming from the kettle.

Use Tongue and groove joints help seal the box’s corners, you can consider to silicon them to make sure no steam will be lost, but if you glue your joints right it should not be necessary. add screws every 12cm along the corners, the box also needs a vew drainage holes in the bottom, imagine you glue your steambox so perfect. it might explode due to the pressure rising inside. Also the steam should be able to circulate around the wood and through the box. therefor it is advised to raise your wood by adding some horizontal dowels. make a hinged door at one or both ends, use a rubber strip to seal them. to be able to monitor the heat inside of the box you can add a hole on top and put a thermometer through.

Choosing your wood

Species Smallest Radius
Oak (red/white) 5cm
Hickory 5cm
Elm 5cm
Walnut 8cm
Ash 12cm
Cherry 15cm
Maple 20cm

There are 2 simple rules when choosing wood:
- Exotic woods do not bend well.
- Softwoods do not bend well and should be avoided.

Not all species bend well and not all species can bend as much as others. It is also important to find the perfect board for your steam bend, take a good look at the grain, it should be as straight as possible and not run out to much, especially where the bend will take place. It should be knot free or any sign of knots, damage in the grain or weird patterns should be avoided.

The moisture content of your board is also important. Freshly sawn wood usually has a moisture content of about 70%. Wood bends best between 20% and 30%. It is better to catch this “on the way down” rather then to remoisturize the wood. The proper moisture content is important if you are bending to small radius- and less important when bending shallow curves. Once the wood has air dried to 6% or 8% it may not be possible to bend it to small radius curves. The lignin bond is only partially reversible at this level, especially if the wood has been sitting for a year or more in this dry state, it will not be possible to gain all the elasticity back by remoisturizing the wood, even by steaming or soaking in water for a longer period of time (days or weeks).

Preparing the bending mold(form)

Before you start steaming your wood, you should have the mold ready to rumble! Basically a mold is the shape you want your wood to bend in, it should be fixated to the table or something similar and very sturdy. Bending the wood will take allot of power so if the mold is not fixated well enough you will not be able to bend the wood around it fast enough. a vew examples of molds below. when making your bending mold, take in consideration your wood species, minimum radius etc.

 Steaming and Bending

Now the Steam box and bending shape are ready to go you can start with steaming the wood, Remember the temperature inside the Steam box should be around 100º then steam your board for about one hour per 3cm of thickness (regardless of width). Wood at 30% will require a little less time, wood at 15% a little more. Oversteaming is not advised, as it may cause compression wrinkles to develop as the bend progresses around the form. when your board had enough sauna its time to bend! get your clamps ready and make sure no objects are in between the steam box and bending mold. Once you open up the steam box and take the wood out the lignin starts to harden. so its all about speed, Bend the wood as soon as possible around your bending mold and clamp them. depending on the size of your bend you might need to ask for some help. the faster you bend and clamp it around the mold the better. Once it is clamped in place, leave it there to dry for a vew days. usually after 5 to 7 it will be fully cooled. (or under 10%)

 Springback and  Close in

Springback can occur when the curve is so shallow so that the lignin does not shift enough to hold the new shape, the part is too dry (moisture content too low before steaming or insufficient steaming time), the clamping pressure was to less, the part was not left on the bending form until fully cooled, or the part didn’t dry thoroughly (less than 10% M.C.).

Close-in can occur iIf the moisture content of the wood is too high when bending (above 30%), the displaced and compressed wood fibers continue to contract as the bent wood dries out or If the end pressure is too high during the bending process, the overcompressed inner face of the blank will contract as the wood dries out. To avoid Springback or close in you can fixate the endings with a rule or connect them to another part of the end product fixating them in place. if you are bending legs for a table or chair for example, Experience is all that will help you to avoid both these problems.

Below some nice examples of steam bent furniture.

Wanna see some Steam bending Action? This 6minute video will show you some amazing Steam Bending!



Dovetail Joints

The Dovetail joint is one of the joints I personally like the most, not only does it look beautiful. Its super strong and makes whatever your making instantly cool showing it off! Most people think dovetails are very hard to make, and although it requires some skill (for if you never used a chisel before its like driving the bike for the first time) The principle is very simple and anybody can do it with some patience and practice.

there are different types of Dovetails, the most commonly used dovetails are

So lets start with the tools needed to make a Dovetail joint, Of course there are different ways to make a dovetail joint so lets just go for the most common.

Once you have all your tools gathered and your wood ready. you can start with some Dovetailing! once again I would like to note that it can be done in different ways depending on the person making them, its just a matter of opinion. So when I make Dovetails I start with the Tails first.

the angle of the tails is usually 1:6, after marking your tails Use your marking gauge to make a little cut on the waste parts (this so you can put you chisel in after sawing) afterwards you can make the first cuts with your saw, when you cut all the sides of the tails you can place a board along the shoulders to remove the waste material with your chisel and make sure you will go straight down. then just clean the tails with the chisel so they will be all smooth and ready to go into their “not yet made” sockets.

the next step will be to mark the sockets, the best way to do this is to place your tailboard on the pinboard, and use the already made tails as a template for your sockets, marking the angle and width on the end grain of the wood. Once you have your Sockets perfectly copied you should mark the depth of the socket which is the same as the thickness of your Tailboard. Again use your marking gauge to cut the waste parts for easy chiseling. Once done you can make the cuts with your saw, remove the waste material and smooth out the sockets. Be careful this time!! cuz everything you remove to much you cannot put back!! Rather remove less and a bit more afterwards then to much the first time. Try to make the sockets a perfect fit for your tails, Not to tight but Definitely no gaps either!

If you are doing everything right, your tail and pin part will not fit at first, keep removing little slices of wood from your sockets untill eventually they will fit without huge gaps or to much sounds pushing them together. they can be tight, just not to tight for you will also have to add some glue when clamping them.

Fitting Dovetails Fitting dovetails

This say it all

This say it all

Some other nice Examples of Just Right Dovetails to inspire your on your future journey to Dovetail making!


How to: Board

To make boards from a log you can use different machines and techniques. back in the days, most boards were cut either by hand, Bandsaw and even split by axe (still used in green woodworking) These days most of the boards you can buy are from big automated sawmills. This post ill give you an idea how boards are cut from logs in different ways, instead of writing allot about this. ill use the help of youtube for a real cinematic experience!

Lets start with one of the classic ways to get some boardsz, most small cabinetmakers like a specific part of the log or are looking for a specific flame or grain they want for their cabinet. therefor some of them saw there planks with the use of a Bandsaw right on the spot in their workshop.

Caution! lower your volume!

Skip to: 00:27

but the same principle can be used on a larger scale also. which looks something like this

And even horizontal which is done like this

 Another common way these days to cut your log into boards is with the circular saw by pushing the log through the saw.

 due to technologiez, this also got more fancy. machines like this do everything for you. all you have to do is put some logz in.

Luckily there are still professionals left on this planet. who don’t prefer automated machines, these dudes are so crazy. they just board dem log using a chainsaw. as if it a knife going through butter.!

Skip to: 01:23

N Me? well we have allot of boards lying around the property. most of them with bark on them. so when I need a board I just draw a straight line on one side of the board, cut it with Chainsaw then draw the with of the board I need and cut it again. simple as that!

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Table Tinkering

The last two weeks we had an extra visitor @IzReal. Andre, he is a photographer. Last year he was here for the first time, he liked the project so much he decided to come back Every year from now on to Photo Report about the happenings around here, if you are interested about last year you can find his Facebook Page Here.

This year he wanted to do a Photo Report about some Craftsmanship, When he heard I studied furniture he got rather interested, His plan was to do a Photo Report about the bench, “From Plank to Bench”  he liked to call it, but in the end we worked on the Greenhouse and lots other things so the “From Plank to Bench” didn’t really happen, there was need for a Table outside between the Rocket Stove n Water well, to Aid the cooking and general work.

I can make a short story long, but this time ill just stick with the simpleness of hiz picturez,
Enjoy the album below, about Tinkering a Table!

Table Finished

Da Resultz

So back to the “Craftsmanship” there were some mental thingiez going on in my Brainz when working on this table. Most of the time I have been using Stationary and big machinery to make furniture and related Wood Joints, to end up with either small or huge cabinets or furniturezz. At school I did learn to do basically any Joint by hand, but after school this faded pretty fast. Work is not about making an awesome Joint, Its about making money and finishing this Cabinet ASAP!

A table like this is actually not that hard to craft. Usually you start with framework for the Undercarriage and finish it with the table top, due to: I already had the Table top, I did it the other way around for a change, but on the way, I noticed thing were not exactly right. for example at first it Wobbled like crazy, While in theory I figured my Style and Rule work would be perfect for the job, in the end it was not. I had to puzzle a bit, and with some tinkering I finally found a way to make it stable enough. yet again, not much craftsmanship was involved (in my honest opinion), using a Jigsaw and a power-drill with screwz ghegheghe.

The point in trying to make clear is: a lot that I have learned in the last 8 years of fine woodworking, is something I have not exactly been able to put into practice here, I notice The voice in my head likes to blame this on lack of tools, but in the end I just didn’t find my way yet. Things that usually are EZ, now take way to long in my opinion or go wrong. I have to do things on completely different way, in which this voice in my head get all weird about it instead of just accepting it and fixing it with what I have. (which would normally be the case)

It haz been 2 months since I left home, I still stand 100% Behind the decision I made. And i really like beeing here, but with this table, especially with the Bench (which I’m still working on D: ) I’m starting to realize the other side of the decisions I made, Things are not always as you expect/want them to be. Especially in a place where I am living now. Even more when you do not have the tools you have been thought to work with Inside the Box. Here we are outside of the box. With only a vew of those tools.

Finding your passion is what matters most,
I like woodworking, but maybe this is not my Real passion as I always thought.
This I judge from observing my mind lately.
Yet I can imagine he also needs to get used to thingz around here,

an answer will come fo sho,
In Time!


Board Types

Cutting a log into board is something you can do in different ways, not only can you get different type of boardz out of the same log, you can do it with a chainsaw, bandsaw, circular saw or even by hand if you have the patience and time for it. In this post i will tell you something about the different types of boardz you can get out of a log. The next time i will show you some nice examples of how this is actually done!

Cross-Section treeThere are three types of planks you can get out of a log: Plain Sawn (Flat sawn), Quarter Sawn and Rift sawn. A plank gets classified in either one of these depending on the grain you can see when it is cut, which is dependent on where it was located in the log when it was cut and of course the way the log was cut.

When cutting for Plain sawn which is the most common method today, a boardz is cut from the log, and then turned 90º before taking the next cut. This process is continued until the entire log is cut. The graining in plain sawn wood are at 0-30 degree angles, which create large open patterns on the face of the boards (referred to as the cathedral effect).
plain sawn

When cutting for Quartered sawn boardz, the log is cut into quarters, then cut perpendicular to the growth rings of the log. This results in tight graining at angles of 60-90 degrees that are closer to the surface of the boardz. This shows off the medullary rays Its like the veins or arteries in our body, but then of the wood. Creating amazing flecks in the wood that add to the character and amazingnesz of the finished product.
Quarter Sawn
I personally like Flat sawn most of all, due to the amazing flamey pattern that becomes visible. But you can use Quarter sawn planks very nice also, here some very sweet examples of the flecks that become Visible in Quater Sawn boardz, flecks are not visible in every type of wood,  But I have seen them most visible in Oak related species and Sycamore

medullary ray 2 medullary ray1 medullary ray 3

Similar to quarter sawn wood, when cutting for Rift sawn boardz, the log is first quartered. Then the quarters are cut radially perpendicular to the growth rings (this differs from quarter sawn). This cut produces liner graining along the boards at angles of 30-60 degrees.
Rift Sawn

The main differences between Quarter sawn and Rift sawn is that with Quarter sawn boardz you will see the Flecks through the grain, at the sides you will see Flames like in Plain sawn (because the thickness of your plank is usualy a vew CM this is not so special). with Rift sawn boards, most of the time there are No Flecks, neither is there any Flamey pattern, all sides will have lines of the grain!

Below some more Examples of the Flamey Figure of Plain sawn boardz, the Flecks of Quarter sawn boardz and the Grain of Rift sawn boardz. Also a animated movie how Quarter/Rift sawn boards are cut these days

Lumber Quartersawing Proces (modern)


Choppin down a Treez

I have been busy with lots O Things, but I don’t have the Pictures yet!. Due to the rain today, and not the ability to continue on the Bench for example. I figured ill just write an article about how to chop down a Treez! (Not that im implying you should! for every tree you take, at least plant anew!) but due to my connection with wood, its a nice subject to write about. expect more articles about how to work with wood in the future!

splitaxeYou can either chop down a tree with an Axe or if you prefer, a Chainsaw, lets start with da Axe!There are allot of safety things you should think about before you start, but who cares about safety. lets just Die trying!

So you start with picking an Axe Like a true lumberjack! It is advised to use 2 types of Axes depending on the type of tree you will Chop Chop Chop, A Rounding axe (right) is usually used for Hardwoods and a Wedge axe (left) Usually for soft woods. Now you have your Axe and found the Tree you like to Chop Chop Chop, there is one safety thing that is important, The way which the tree will fall.

Make sure the path is clear, that there are no children playing axe-570x380around there, or maybe houses located. it would suck for any of those to get a big ass tree fall upon them! also the wind direction is very important to think about.

Once you decided where the tree will fall. you can start chopping the first V shaped cut (The size of the tree does not really matter)
you should cut this first V shape (Kerf) about 1/3 of the thickness of the tree in a +/- 45 degree angle

proper-way-to-cut-down-a-treeOnce you finished your first Kerf its time for the Felling cut, basically this cut is at the opposite of the Kerf. You know, there is still 2/3 of a tree left eh! The felling cut should be a vew CM above the fist cut you made, and you shouldn’t cut it all the way through, this because the wood in the middle will act as e Hinge when the tree will tilt, there is a difference in making these cuts depending on choppin it with Axe or sawing it with Chain which you can see on the left.FH12OCT_FELING_11

Once your Kerf and the Felling cuts are done, things can turn out in different ways and you should handle accordingly, If your Hinge is strong enough, the tree will still balance, and you will need to hit another Hinge in the felling cut to make the tree fall, Some say you should cut your Kerf a bit more on the top until it reaches the Felling cut (which is a vew CM above the Kerf) which will make the tree starts tilting, Then just RUN!!! Others just cut the felling cut all the way Through till the tree starts to tilt, In either way. Be aware of the tree and how it reacts to your cuts. It is also possible to tie a rope in the top of the tree (obviously do this before you start on cutting it) so you can pull it a bit into the right direction and put tension on it when cutting the Felling cut, make sure the pulling party doesn’t stay there. or the tree will fall on is head. (mostly used in urban areas)

When the tree starts to tilt, MAKE DISTANCE! don’t stay to close. the tree can roll, maybe bounce, shit can happen and if you are to close you can get in trouble. Never cut a tree down alone. always bring someone with you in case of emergency!

Also don’t try to hit the tree with a Hammer…….

To Chop Chop Chop da Treez with a chainsaw, is very similar to using an Axe, although there are allot of things you should think about, for example Preparing your Chainsaw and in this case some more Safety measures would be advised due to Crazy Chain Sawz,

the best way to check out how this happens is to just check out this 8min movie, This dude is Hilarious and you get a Live tree Choppin n Droppin Experience!


Project Greenhouse

Last Friday we started on Project Greenhouze, Friday n Saturday we worked on it here n there, we got about this far, Sunday Rain hit us again. so basically we didn’t work on da Greenhouze that day and chilled like a Baws.

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The reason we started on the Greenhouze is because we have lots of Tomato seedlings in eggboxsz, so we had to finish the Greenhouze ASAP to put the Tomatoez in there,
I had in mind: at this pace we could finish the Greenhouze around Tuesday

Around Tuesday we got this far…

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U might be thinking,
couldn’tyou level it a bit? everything looks twisted and crooked!
But don’t worry ya all! We Leveled it using This Device!

So Wednesday morning I add some more legs to support the weight and started on sawing some planks for the Table tops left n right, this took longer then I expected,
(we also went to visit a friend of Basz da afternoon. who wasn’t home at the time…) 
but I was able to finish both sides at the end of the day

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Thursday I Though we would finish the Greenhouze fo sho, Me n Basz worked on the Door and the Window together to finish it Asap, Basz did not sleep so well that night, I was being really annoying and way to happy for a sleepy person. Ten$ion but good Co-Op in the end. no finished Greenhouze though

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When we started on stretching the plastic we realized we did not have enough screws and most important things to get this job done fast and right!

We cleaned the place up a bit, headed to the store to buy the needed things to finish the job and went for some dinner at Obuolių sala

Friday morning we were all ready to finish da Greenhouze Project, with all the preparations set I started on stretching da plastic, It was not so difficult as I expected, later on Basz joined me with the front and back side. this time he had a had slept way better, much funzies were had. No Ten$ion.
This is da Result!

Next year the Greenhouze will be updated, we made the tables because we needed it asap for the tomatoez. but next year basz wants to make a Rocket mass heater inside the Greenhouze, instead of the tables we will make 2 containers (filled with clean soil to reduce weed growth) and added 2 Flue’s one in both container. this way he will be able to heath up the ground of the containers to extend the growing period in the winter


What I haz b333n doing lately

All of the sudden I realized, I didn’t even show ya all the Workbench I finished a vew weeks ago, So I will Dedicate this posts to some random thingz I have been doing in the past 2 weeks

To begin with, I started on the workbench. After finishing the yurt n clayying some dayZ, due to the Rainy weatherz after the weekend, the progress on the workbench was put to hold for a while. For I think it is better to use dry wood/saw dem planks outside in da sunny, nevertheless I finished it eventually about 1 week later, cleaning the shed and organizing the Tools we have.

Here you can see the progress on cutting the planks. I first gathered some nice rough planks. Then I would cut 1 side of the plank straight, from there measure it n eventually you will have a nice wooden board to use for the Workbench surface

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Behold, the progression of the workbench below

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Da workbench Finished
Due to cooking on wood, you cant just grab yo panz and start cooking, you need to prepare a vew things before you start. Like chopping sum wood, depending if you wanna cook outside or inside you need to make the peaces small enough to fit the stove, this will give you an idea of this daily process

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Last Wednesday Basz left for The Netherlands, at the moment its just me and Chris here at the “eco villagezz” At first I wanted to join him to surprise some peepz back home, but eventually this didn’t work out cuz Chris didn’t feel like staying here alone, so I have been spending time on clayying da house, helping her in the garden n chopping wood

Once in a while we need to add sum Straw around the raised beds, Chris didn’t like this work so much and rather picked weeds. so I covered the land wit sum straw for her

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Young dude Dolan had a farm,
and he did Eco grow,

And on that farm he had sum veggz,
No, no, GMO!

Veggie here, Veggie there,
Eco Eco Eco, no Roundup just Ecoo!!
herpa derpa, hurka durka.


Alright, now lets get back to seriousz buizneszz.
I have been checking out da full moon a bit back, my camera sux to much for an awesome picture, but you get the point,


Choppin wood is also necessary, there is allot of dried wood under this roof, but it should be cut into small peaces so it fits the Rocket-stove outside, then we store it in some building nearby. To get to the room we store the wood, you first have to go through the Witchcraft chamber, where we practice some of our secret shizzle.
I cannot go into detail because its very secret

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Inorite, the stack is still rather small. that’s because I just started.

Posing like a true woodcutter

Posing like a true woodcutter

Last night there was this Meteor shower hitting Da Erth, It would be visible around the Polar star area between 00:00 and 04:00, i tried to check some previous meteor showers back in The Netherlands, but this never really worked out. mostly due to light pollution n cloudy weather,

This time we got very prepared thought to check out them meteor shower,
There was not even 1 cloud in the sky, and it seemed this was gonna work out!

CIMG0898We chilled from 00:30 till 03:30 when the peak would hit Da Erth,
Because we are more North-East here then The Netherlands, it didn’t got completely dark, basically the Sun wanders the horizon all night, so it will stay a little light all night, due to this fact we were not able to see most of the Meteor shower,

We did see about 7 satellites flying by though, and although Chris did manage to see some of the meteor shower. usually when she was LOOK THERE ON THE LEFT. I was looking to the right side of the sky, and so on.

ah well. Satellites are fine to,
It was rather chillin to stare at the sky in silence,
watching the stars that night was the first time since I left NL that I really missed that fact that I was not able to light up a Super Dikke Jonko :(

It started to get very bright again, the sun here starts to rise around 03:30, also some clouds were passing by around that time, so that’s when we went to get sum sleep. Here the sun will be visible above the horizon between 05:00 n 06:00, around 22:00 its still daytime bright, then it starts to get little darker. indeed very long days and short nights in summer.

The clayying of the outside wall has been going well, I also worked on the window frames.
to give you an impression how this works check below. A layer of clay will come over the green stuff,on the window ledge wont be clay, but the Lime shizzle will come straight over it.

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and that’s basically most of the stuff that has been going on here lately.

I would also like to share some of these pictures.

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Add Sum Clay

Last week was very fun! We all Tuned into da Izreal Vibes. build a Mongolian Yurt and the amazing weekend in Vilnius.

Buts its Monday again! Work haz to be done. To bad the weather was not with us. A heavy northern wind hit us. Northern winds are Strong and cold. So basically Monday we stayed inside all day. and chilled a bit. (this was great for me) because I managed to get my blog up to date. As far as I remember I spend most of Monday hitting the keyboardz and adding pages to my book! Tuesday was the same, the weather was not with us. Rain hit us. Not much work was done this day. I cant recall any specific things we did except for. not much.

Then Wednesday arrived. its the 7th of May. Now things started to get extra fun!

The house still haz allot of walls that needs to get finished. Basically they are filled with isolation (straw/clay mix) but still need a vew layers of Erthn Plaster to finish them.
Basz started to teach me the tricks of the trade: Mixing Erthn Plaster.

IMG_0369First I had to learn the mixture he uses to smear on the walls. Its like mixing cement, but now we don’t use ready to go Bagz of cement and water.
We use a mix of Clay, Sand, Straw n water.
You should think of 1/3 where 1 shovel of Clay, needs 3 Shovels of Sand. Add enough straw n water, then mix it. To check if the mixture is good you make a ball of it, if it sticks to your hand if you keep it Open-ish. It’s fine. If it drops. It’s not. When you do the first layer which you have to push deep into the Isolation. Its sometimes better to add a bit more water for EZ Smearyness. Its not that hard actually, Honestly I think this Erthn Plaster works Way WAy WAY better then cement. Don’t forget! the surface you are gonna Smear needs to be Wet, if its not, it will not stick. So we spray it with water before we start duuh

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After Basz explained me the mixture, He just let me do my thang. I have little experience with plastering. but due to the EZness of this shit. I got the hang of it pretty fast.

The first layers you push deep into the clay, on top will come another layer of clay which you can smooth out. On top of that will come the Lime plaster thingy but we didn’t get to that part yet. for now its just Clay.

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Of course when you finished your first clay wall and its still FRESH the cat comes to take a look. Thnx James, your paw prints were very artzies. I’m not sure if Basz removed them or if they are still actually present in the wall. tbh i hope so :D i didn’t do anything about them gheghe

But there R moar people that can Clay. So when he told me the tricks of the trade, he didn’t feel like telling the rest of the Ego village residence. Basically I had to explain them what I just learned. this was eazyr then expected. After the introduction we started filling up walls like Madmanz

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To give you an example of the different layers.
isolation, Erthn Plaster pushed in it. Erthn Plaster to add thickness and smoothness. then Limeshizzle for finish

CIMG0802No the bottles are not trash, they will eventually be used to make psychedelic windows you digg ? You might also be thinking. Where do you get all this clay from? Well we dig it up of course. But its not like you get a shovel and dig up some clay. it haz rules and thing to consider. I’m thinking about making a Resources page. but for now ill just explain you how we dig up the clay we use to smear on the walls.

When you dig up the clay you have to make sure you don’t get to much sand or vegetation in your clay. The first step for claydigging is to remove the top layer of da Erth, the layer that haz the grass, plants and roots in it. Once you removed the organic top layer of da Erth, you have to keep going until you hit the right clay. Some clay is very sandy. This is not the right clay, you need to have the right type of clay with lots o moist n awesomeness.

Once you removed the top layer and found the right clay and removed most of the dirt, you can start choppin of peaces of the clay. Which we then shovel into a wheelbarrow, we fill the wheelbarrow full of clay with water so the clay gets more moist. Then we can use it in the mix.

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So Wednesday we were working on the walls, we did this also on Thursday. It was still rather rainy, luckily we were able to work on the inside walls of the house. Friday the weather got better. Lots better. We had rainz at night but Sun at day and not much wind, sometimes a lil drop here n there, but then we would just chill a bit until the Heavy rain stopped. Peter n Bart were working on the outside walls. Chris n Karin in the garden. what Basz was doing is not important really.

Me though. I had a new task. I Started on a Workbench in the shed. basically all the tools are all over the place. This workbench will make it easy to store tools, also when the workbench is done. I can probably start to “actually make some furniture” because this haven’t been the case yet until (Saturday)

To give you an idea of how the workbench is doing, it looks like this at the moment.

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Not much to say here. you will see more of it sooner or later!

Saturday while I was working on the workbench, Chris came to me with a question.
she wanted a lil Kitchen thingy for in the Yurt so she could do the dishes in the Yurt instead of walking all the way to the house. Chris told me her idea and we started fabricating some kitchenthingy. it was rather fun, and things went pretty fast.

I still have to get used to the way things work here. I’m used to stationary machines Unobro. Everything as perfect as possible. Here things are crazy, nothing is perfect and I have minimum tools to do what I have to do. luckily everything went fine. Although I felt like a Retard finishing this Kitchen thingy. Chris was very happy with it and enjoyed it very much that night doing her first dishes inside the yurt.

So this week in a nutshell. Monday n Tuesday was hardcore chillin. Wednesday and Thursday we learned how to mix Erthn Plaster n how to Smear on the walls, I learned how to gather clay from the ground around the property. Friday I started on the workbench and Saturday I was working on the workbench n kitchenthingy.

It was a nice week again!, cant wait to see whats be happening next week. Also the 17th is some crazy Street music Day in Vilnius which I’m gonna check out fo sho! Imagine Live Music everywhere in the streetsz to check out for free.

tomorrow is the great unknown!!